One does not go to El Hefe Super Macho Taqueria for dinner. One goes to El Hefe Super Macho Taqueria for the tabletop taps. An ingenious invention that, like Eden’s apple, simply must be sampled despite its most assuredly sinful outcome, the self-serve taps sit like condensation-kissed gas pumps of alcohol at each booth. And when the attractive and friendly El Hefe server swipes a card to free the tap and fill the computer-screen beer glass with your first 32 ounces of Coors Light or Dos Equis, it is not so much a courtesy as it is a challenge. You and your guests will be fighting to be newly appointed deputy bartender, and you’ll have every intention of draining its lode, literally and digitally.

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